Desktop Boots Turns Off Then Boots Up Again
#1 
kjm782
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Posted fourteen November 2010 - 06:07 PM
Hullo,
I am having problems booting up my computer. This is only an issue if the calculator was previously off for a few hours. (If I am just restarting in that location is no consequence.) Usually the figurer will commencement to boot up (lights and fans come on and I see the Mail service screen come) and and so subsequently a few seconds it just shuts off. If I do this iii-4 times the computer commonly starts up and everything is fine.
I've as well tried going right into the BIOS when the computer starts and if I do this it volition usually stay on while in the BIOS menu. (If I exit the BIOS right away, the estimator will shut off a few seconds into the Post procedure.) I'll let it sit for a while in the BIOS bill of fare thinking that perhaps if it has a adventure to warm upwardly information technology volition be ok. It is tough to tell if this really makes a divergence though.
The reckoner is most 2 years old and I oasis't actually made any hardware changes in the last year. In fact, it has probably been a year since I last opened the instance. I opened it tonight to meet if there was excessive dust that may be interfering with the fans and that doesn't appear to be the problem.
I am assuming that this has to be a motherboard or a power supply upshot? Unfortunately I don't have any spare parts to bandy out to see which is the culprit. I accept a 520w power supply and my motherboard is a Gigabyte GA-M57SLI-S4 (rev ii.0).
Does anyone have any ideas for what I could endeavour? Give thanks you in accelerate for your help.
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#2
dc3
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Posted fifteen November 2010 - 10:27 AM
If you have a multimeter which reads DC voltages you can bank check out the PSU for proper rail voltages. The tutorial which I'k posting below can be used for this test. In your case it would be beneficial to set this up and then outset your computer while it's cold to see what the +12V and +5V rails are reading before it shuts down. Read these one at a fourth dimension until the figurer shuts downwardly and record the different voltages.
Some other exam you tin practice is to start your estimator from a bootable disk. You may need to modify the boot club in the BIOS so that the CD-ROM is the first device in the boot order. If it fails to kick from the disk this will indicate a hardware failure.
Reading PSU Runway Voltages
Caution : Delight read this before continuing.
� Since it volition exist necessary for your computer to be on during this procedure, you demand to be aware that you will exist working with live 12Volt DC potentials, which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock.
� There are electronics inside the case that are very susceptible to electrostatic discharges. To protect your estimator, impact the metal of the example to discharge yourself of any electrostatic charges before touching any of the components within.
� If you are not comfortable doing this procedure, and then I would propose that you lot not use this tutorial. The risks involved are minimal, simply are at that place nevertheless. Anyone who uses this tutorial will be doing so at their own risk.
There are two devices commonly used to read the rail voltages: a PSU tester, and a multimeter.
The PSU tester is the easiest to use since all that is necessary is to plug the different connectors into the tester and read the results on the LCD display. The problem with most of these is that they merely perform a pass/neglect test. They will not provide you with bodily voltage readings.
At that place are a diversity of multiple meters, only this tutorial volition accost Analog and Digital multimeters. The advantage of these meters is that you lot will be able to obtain authentic real time voltage readings.
For those of you who wish to know more near multimeters in that location is an excellent article in Wikipedia.
Analog Multimeter
An Analog multimeter is a piffling more than complicated to apply. Both Analog and Digital multimeters demand to be set to the appropriate voltage, but with an Analog multimeter, you volition need to choose the voltage range and must read the proper scale.
The Analog multimeter uses a needle display which moves from 0 beyond the scale until it reaches the voltage beingness tested. This multimeter has v major linear divisions with multiple scales to read a diverseness of ranges. An case would be three different ranges. The first is graduated in increments of 0 through 5, the 2nd, 0 through 10, and the third, 0 through 25. Each of these ranges are subdivided into divisions that are graduated into tenths. In order to read 12 volts the 0 through 25 range would be the appropriate one.
Because DC voltage has positive and negative potentials this device is polar sensitive, this means that if y'all reverse the two probes when reading a positive DC voltage it will read as a negative voltage. This is actually necessary to read negative DC voltages. The two probes are differentiated by their color, Black (negative), and Cherry-red (positive). To read a positive DC voltage, the right probes must be used with their corresponding potentials (positive to positive and negative to negative).
With the probes beingness used normally to read a negative DC voltage, the needle moves from the 0 to the left, "pegging" the needle. By reversing the probes you can properly read the negative voltages.
Digital Multimeter
The Digital multimeter (DMM) is much simpler to use. As was mentioned previously, you will need to set the advisable voltage. One of the advantages is that the DMM has an LCD display with a numeric readout, then there are not any multiple scales to read. Another advantage is that well-nigh DMMs are autoranging when reading voltages, which means that you volition non need to set the range with these DMMs. A DMM will read both positive and negative DC voltages and display them correctly. When reading a negative voltage, a minus sign will appear on the display earlier the numeric value. This still is a polar sensitive device, and so you volition still need to employ the positive and negative probes with their corresponding potentials.
There are v different DC rail voltages which are colour coded. The Black wires are always negative.
Yellow +12VDC Blue -12VDC Reddish +5VDC White -5VDC Orange +3.3VDC
There are only three voltages that can exist measured hands without disconnecting the xx/24 pin connector from the motherboard: +12V, +5V, and +iii.3V.
The +12V and +5V voltages can be read from a four pivot Molex power connector.
Four pivot Molex power connector
The same voltages tin exist taken from a iv pivot SATA power connector, but in club to read the +3.3V you will need to read this from a five pin SATA power connector every bit seen below.
5 pin SATA power connector.
To read these voltages y'all will need to insert the Black (-) probe into whatever of the blackness sockets, and insert the Red (+) probe in the unlike colored voltage sockets. To read the voltages from a SATA power connector information technology is easiest to insert the probes into the back of the connector where the wires enter. Unfortunately the sockets of the modular SATA power connectors are not accessible from the back, so the readings volition need to be made from the socket side. Some probes are going to exist also large to fit in these sockets, so you may need to insert a piece of wire into the socket of which you want to read the voltage of and place the probe on this for your reading. To reduce the potential of creating a curt I would advise taking the ground potential from another connector then that the two wires will remain physically separated.
Caution : Information technology is very important to brand sure that you don't allow the 2 probes to affect each other when taking the voltage readings. This will cause a short which could damage the PSU or other components.
To become authentic readings of the track voltages it is of import that there be a load on the PSU. In order to do this I would advise downloading Prime95 for this purpose. This programme was designed to be used by overclockers to put a full load on the RAM and CPU to determine the stability of their overclocking. Because of this it will put stress on the CPU and RAM which will create college than normal temperatures. For this reason I would advise not running this plan any longer than is necessary. I would as well suggest that an inspection be made of the interior of the case to make sure that there isn�t an aggregating of grit which would impede adequate cooling. Pay special attention to the heat sink and fan assembly on the CPU. If in that location is a defended graphics card with a fan installed on information technology, look at this fan likewise.
Readings should non have variances larger than +/- v pct.
Maximum ......... Minimum
12.6V.................eleven.4V
5.25V.................4.75V
3.47V.................3.14V
Family and loved ones will always be a priority in my daily life. You never know when one volition leave you.
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#three
dpunisher
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Posted 15 November 2010 - eleven:04 AM
Easy stuff get-go.
Go into BIOs at the earliest opportunity. Verify the time clock is correct (this volition tell you if the CMOS batt is OK). Are your settings correct as far a CPU being recognized, it's speed, and are the memory settings/timings right likewise. I have a Gigabyte mobo that would practise the reboot 3-4 times when I got my overclock settings a flake too optimistic, and and so it would go to default BIOS settings, and then boot normally. Striking the "insert" key when it first starts to see if that volition reset all BIOS settings to default, see if that boots on the commencement try.
I am a retired Ford tech. Next to Fords, whatsoever computer is a piece of cake. (The cake, its not a lie)
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#4
90awdturbo
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Posted 15 November 2010 - 12:41 PM
I had a similar issue with my PC and then realized I had the wrong cablevision plugged into my PSU to the wall. I hold with the second mail service idea, cheque the bios first if u tin can go far. Your not blue screeing right?
"Your biggest critics are your best friends" -Benjamin Franklin
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#5
kjm782
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Posted 17 November 2010 - 07:54 PM
Thanks for all of the suggestions.
ane) I don't have a multimeter, although if they aren't that expensive I might expect into getting 1. I'm certain this won't be the final time that I accept a computer trouble.
2) Well-nigh of the fourth dimension the reckoner shuts off earlier it gets to the point where it would boot from a disk or the hard bulldoze. (A lot of times information technology is in the middle of the process that detects all of the connected drives.)
3) I shut my computer off overnight last night (nearly 12 hours). Strangely though when I turned it on today it started up normally on the beginning try. I checked the clock and it appears that the CMOS battery is ok. Although in the past the simply times that I close my computer off are when I am going to be away for a few days. I'1000 wondering if that has something to do with it. Information technology volition be off for a few days over Thanksgiving then I guess I'll see what happens when I go back.
4) I haven't really messed with whatsoever of the overclocking settings. Everything is prepare at the manufacturing plant defaults.
five) I am not getting any bluish screens. Typically this happens earlier I even get to the point where the O/S loads.
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Source: https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/360557/computer-starts-to-boot-then-shuts-off-successfully-boots-after-3-4-tries/
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